Exclusive: Costume Designer Luca Mosca Talks “The Rings Of Power”

Ahead of the release of The Lord Of The Rings: The Rings Of Power season two, I had the privilege of speaking to the epic fantasy series’ costume designer, Luca Mosca, who takes over from Kate Hawley this season. Mosca’s behind-the-camera credits include The Last Witch Hunter, Paranoia, Vantage Point and the first three entries in the John Wick film franchise, preparing him for the unique challenges of designing for Elves, Dwarves, Humans, Harfoots, Orcs and more, on one of the largest television series’ ever made.

Luca Mosca at the premiere for The Lord Of The Rings: The Rings Of Power. He is wearing a black suit and tie.
Luca Mosca | image courtesy of Luca Mosca

Leith Skilling: We’ve heard that this season of The Rings Of Power takes the series to a much darker place, tonally and thematically. How have the costumes evolved to reflect that?

Luca Mosca: This season is action versus lore: last season, we introduced the characters, but what you will see this season is lots of intense epic pieces that require intense costuming. Sauron is definitely darker but since he is deceitful he can also appear in “fair form” in order to mislead both us and the characters that he is juxtaposed to. In terms of designs, we manipulated his fabrics by dyeing and distressing them, and we played with shapes to be more or less fluid or drapey, in order to go along with the misleading message. Sometimes, a fabric appears one way, but it may reveal a shiny underlayer to create the illusion of something that exists or maybe does not exist, something that is visible only partially or only at different moments.

Tanya Moodie as Gundabel in The Rings Of Power, standing in the center of a village built into the steep walls of a sandy ravine. She has dark frizzy hair, and wears a saffron-yellow dress with wide reddish-brown sleeves and a long necklace made of knitted yarn, from which hangs a large round medallion.
Gundabel | Amazon MGM Studios
Credit: Ross Ferguson / Prime Video

LS: The Rings Of Power is heading to locations, like the land of Rhûn, that the books never described in much detail. When designing for an entirely new culture and its characters, where do you look for inspiration, and what are the difficulties of creating something that has to feel distinct but still exist within the context of Middle-earth?

LM: We always start with intense research. My team and I consulted art and history books and ancient artifacts. I am a museum rat and I spent days in the various museums of New Zealand, New York, London and Paris, absorbing cultures and time periods and drawing inspiration from textures, fabrics, colors and shapes ranging from the Stone Age to the Middle Ages, from Baroque to the late 1800s.

Rory Kinnear as Tom Bombadil in The Rings Of Power, photographed from the waist up, standing in a dimly-lit room of his humble house. He has long curly reddish-brown hair and a beard. He wears a tall gray feathered hat, and a blue jacket over a white tunic with a brown belt.
Tom Bombadil | Amazon MGM Studios
Credit: Ross Ferguson / Prime Video

LS: This season, you got to create one of the most iconic outfits described in J.R.R. Tolkien’s The Lord Of The Rings; Tom Bombadil’s feathered cap, bright blue jacket, and bright yellow boots. What were the challenges of bringing that from page to screen?

LM: Tolkien was very specific when describing some details of Tom Bombadil’s outfit. Our goal was not to immediately make him identifiable as Tom Bombadil, and we played with tonal variations of the colors described in the lore, and when you meet him on the screen, hopefully he won’t immediately jump at you for who he really is.

LS: Costume design is a collaborative process with several other departments, and with the actors who will be wearing the costumes. Can you briefly take us through the process of bringing a costume from sketch to screen?

LM: After the initial sketch, a very detailed illustration of the final costume is created. The choice of colors and fabrics are driven by the interior sets or the exterior locations, so I encourage a constant back-and-forth with the art department. When we created a new civilization this season, on top of the photos of the location, we obtained samples of sand, dirt, dust and vegetation from the actual location in order to design the costumes in harmony with the landscape and to “ground” the characters in their environment.

Cynthia Addai-Robinson as Miriel in The Rings Of Power, facing left, walking past a row of onlookers in a great hall. She has curly dark hair, bunched up and hanging in loose ringlets. She wears a silver diadem encrusted with large black gemstones, and a black-and-white mosaic collar over a long white gown.
Queen Regent Míriel | Amazon MGM Studios
Credit: Ben Rothstein / Prime Video

LS:  The costume I’m personally most excited to see onscreen is the white dress and mosaic collar Míriel wears this season [pictured above], that was on display at San Diego Comic-Con last month. If possible, can you tell me anything about how that dress came to be and how difficult it was to create?

LM: Maybe the adjective “difficult” should be replaced with “elaborate” because it involved so many components and so many sub-departments of the costume department were involved. The costume required the work of smiths, jewelers, embroiders and milliners on top of dyers, cutters and stitchers. Queen Regent Míriel wears that costume for a scene that evokes emotions, and we thought of a watery theme, where water represents feelings. The collar is encrusted with pearls and with a mosaic of mother of pearl, almost to evoke a submarine creature living inside a seashell.

LS: If you had to choose one, which costume are you most proud of and why?

LM: Please don’t ask a parent to choose his favorite child 🙂

Sophia Nomvete as Disa in The Rings Of Power, standing in an underground stone hall, amongst a group of Dwarven women. She has long dark curly hair, and wears a floor-length gray gown. She has gold bracelets on her wrists and gold-dust on her fingers.
Disa | Amazon MGM Studios
Credit: Ben Rothstein / Prime Video

LS: What inspired you to become a costume designer, and which costume designer’s work is an influence on you?

LM: My background is fashion. I never thought in my early years that I would have shifted my career towards film and TV, but movies came to me one after the other and the transition was organic and almost seamless. It was the “oldies” from the 40s, 50s and 60s that shaped my cinematic taste. I can tell you that at least once a year I like to rewatch Dr. Zhivago.

LS: Finally, if you could go back in time, is there any film you would have loved to have done the costumes for?

LM: It would be an old movie that I love so much, therefore I would not want to have done costumes for it because they are perfectly beautiful as they are.


The Lord Of The Rings: The Rings Of Power season two premieres Thursday, August 29th, on Amazon Prime Video.

“Carol” Review! Is It A Christmas Movie Or Not?

Is 2015’s Carol a Christmas movie, in the proper sense of the phrase? Some would argue it is simply by virtue of being set in the last few weeks of December (and because one of the most memorable scenes in the movie revolves around the subject of Christmas presents), but in my opinion, it’s even a bit deeper than that.

Carol
Carol Aird | cinemablographer.com

Carol utilizes Christmas for more than just pretty set dressing. The overwhelming noise and chaotic hustle of the holiday season provides the perfect backdrop to the quiet, intimate, love story at the film’s core. The crowds of confused and hurried shoppers rushing to find gifts is an unmistakable parallel to the confusion of any whirlwind romance, but particularly one shared by two women in an unaccepting era – when even the terminology for sexual orientation was still unclear and mostly derogatory. And Christmas brings with it a whole slew of constraints and restrictions on the time our heroines can spend together without being watched. But…whenever the romance finally has a moment to breathe, everything goes quiet. The noise dies down until it’s little more than a murmur in the background; Carter Burwell’s Oscar-nominated score gently reinforces the building passion; and the spirit of Christmas is discovered in simple things like snowfall on a terrace at night, a Christmas tree purchased on the spur of the moment, or an abrupt winter getaway out west.

Based on The Price Of Salt (a semi-autobiographical novel first published in 1952 by Patricia Highsmith under a pseudonym and later republished in 1990 as Carol under her real name), Carol remains a milestone in LGBTQ+ representation in film: the movie that launched a thousand awards-friendly atmospheric period dramas about introspective white lesbians. The story is small-scale on the surface – a series of electric interactions between two women that quickly becomes a fling, and then a romance – but the stakes couldn’t be higher for either character: Carol Aird (Cate Blanchett) is at risk of losing custody of her daughter if her sexuality is discovered, while Therese Belivet (Rooney Mara) is already engaged to a man for whom she has no feelings. The chemistry between the two actresses is the primary reason for why the movie works as well as it does, and for why it feels so genuine and impactful.

Carol
Therese Belivet and Carol Aird | artforum.com

Carol, the mysterious, multi-faceted woman around whom the story revolves, is the older and wiser of the two; but while her years have given her a flippant attitude towards life and a steady, self-assured command over herself, her surroundings, and her sexuality, they haven’t quieted her desire to finally live freely. Blanchett owns the role like a revelation wrapped up in an epiphany and a sensuous mink coat. And what’s brilliant about Blanchett’s performance (here and elsewhere) is that she never feels the need to overdo anything. Every one of her movements, mannerisms, facial expressions, winks, and subtle half-smiles is loaded with purpose – but so casually conveyed that Blanchett never comes off as fishing for Oscars. Oftentimes, the philosophical dialogue spouted in dramas can come off as inorganic and bizarrely forced, but Blanchett’s line-readings, delivered in that famously deep register that she might as well trademark, are equal halves relatable and enchanting.

The strength of Mara’s performance is in how clearly and vividly she expresses her love for Carol. While the extent of Carol’s feelings toward Therese Belivet are necessarily mysterious and unclear until the very end of the film (and Blanchett easily sells that aura of mystery, where you never know if something she’s said has a double entendre or a hidden meaning), the entire story hinges on Therese’s immediate attraction to Carol. It sounds quite simple – Cate Blanchett is a magnetic personality, after all – but Mara succeeds at convincing us that Therese’s devotion goes deeper than a surface-level. And although the film can’t take us into Therese’s head like the novel, it gets as close as it possibly can. Director Todd Haynes stages each romantic scene as if from Therese’s point of view, as she absorbs every tiny detail about her lover. That subtly allows us to also learn about Therese’s own self-doubt, which prevents her from recognizing her own worth until much later in the film, when the tables are turned.

Alongside powerhouse talents like Blanchett and Mara, it’s hard for anyone else in the movie to carve out much space for themselves. Sarah Paulson comes closest, playing Blanchett’s former lover Abby. Paulson, herself one of the most prominent LGBTQ+ actresses in Hollywood (and whose wife, Holland Taylor, was one of the most prominent LGBTQ+ actresses in Hollywood), has a key supporting role, holding her own opposite Blanchett as the latter’s foil. Also, her ability to slay in brown plaid is admirable, and I would totally watch the Carol prequel Paulson wants to make.

Behind the scenes, pretty much everybody deserves some measure of praise, because the film is a technical masterpiece: but I would especially point out Carter Burwell, whose score beautifully compliments the action; costume designer Sandy Powell, the mastermind behind Carol’s assortment of fur coats, headscarves, and sundresses; and cinematographer Edward Lachman, whose decision to shoot in grainy 16mm film is a large part of why the entire film feels so engrossing.

Carol
Carol Aird | bloomberg.com

But the key to Carol‘s success and popularity (and something which many of its predecessors and successors have forgotten or ignored) is its happy ending, something that stunned readers back in 1952 and viewers in 2015. Little has changed between those two dates, if a simple happy ending is still perceived as groundbreaking in stories (particularly romances) about LGBTQ+ characters, and too little has changed even in the five years since Carol came out. But onscreen representation matters: it has the power to uplift and to inspire. And that’s exactly what Carol‘s ending did for many viewers, by promising something better. Even if it’s not a traditional Christmas movie, it invokes the true spirit of the season far better than some.

Movie Rating: 9.5/10

“Knives Out” Second Trailer Review!

In an attempt to resurrect the “cozy” murder mystery genre, director Rian Johnson may have opened the door to something far bigger. The mystery he has crafted in Knives Out looks engaging, twisty, and very much in the style of Agatha Christie – so much so, that it makes one wonder how Kenneth Branagh will respond, in his upcoming adaptation of an actual Christie work: Death On The Nile. With so few of the classic detectives of literature being moved to the big screen (even Sherlock has been suspiciously absent from the scene recently), and with Knives Out looking to be a surefire hit as it lands a Rotten Tomatoes score high in the 90’s, there’s inevitably going to be conflict between Branagh’s Hercule Poirot and Daniel Craig’s new addition to the scene, the enigmatic Detective Benoit Blanc, both with critics and audiences.

There’s also a large possibility that Knives Out is only the first in a slew of Benoit Blanc mysteries: though Johnson would be hard-pressed to match the prolific mystery-writers of days gone by, he might not have such a difficult time at all surpassing the competition in theaters: gritty crime thrillers are popular, as are courtroom dramas on TV, but when was the last time you actually saw a cozy mystery movie?

The only significant difficulty I could see arising is that Johnson’s movie, as of right now, looks to be either intentionally satirical of, or unintentionally derivative of the classics. Leaving aside the dapper British detective with an oddly outdated name (and a killer green suit, with a bold purple tie), we also have:

The Real Estate Mogul – a staple of mysteries, here played by Jamie Lee Curtis in a blue velvet pantsuit (and absolutely rocking that pantsuit, by the way). Her husband, played by Don Johnson, is the Desperate Son-In-Law, drink in hand, dressed as a Texas oil-tycoon version of Professor Plum in all purple attire.

The Playboy – a foul-mouthed Chris Evans, with an amazing fashion sense. Seriously, where do you even buy a scarf like that? Where do you buy pinstripe pants in this day and age?

The Lifestyle Guru – Toni Collette, looking like a Twitter-savvy parody of Democratic Party candidate Marianne Williamson. Again, dressed to perfection in high-waisted purple balloon pants.

And so on and so on; an entire cast of familiar tropes and archetypes spiraling outwards from their dead patriarch (who might as well be Mr. Body from Clue). In fact, speaking of Clue, each of the character posters is deliberately color coded in what appears to be a nod to the classic murder mystery game. They’ve even got a giant mansion with secret passages and the like – and, for whatever reason, they’ve also got something that looks like Game Of Thrones‘ Iron Throne set up in their living room. In fact, if you’d like to see the posters (I could stare at them all day), you can see them all here.

I assume Johnson will subvert expectations and turn these tropes upside-down and inside-out, because he likes doing that – The Last Jedi speaks volumes about his bravery as a filmmaker. Perhaps he’s pulling a Neil Simon and writing a parody: though it looks serious, and the mystery looks rich with detail and layer, even if it appears quite simple on the surface. But while I don’t know whodunnit, I know this much: whoever Johnson’s costume designer is deserves an Oscar nomination at the very least, because…wow.

What did you think of the trailer? Will you see Knives Out in theaters? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Trailer Rating: 8/10